In the process of fitting the chassis harness to the car, I've run into issues with of the crimped spade terminal slipping off the wires while handling them. The issue is entirely with the style of insulated crimp terminal that whomever built the harness used. In my experience this style of terminal is just unreliable: it's impossible to know if you've gotten a good, positive crimp on the conductor and sleeve. I've had more of these slip off of wires than I care to try to remember, including the two from last night.
Wednesday, October 28, 2020
Sunday, October 25, 2020
I've replaced the stacks of washers spacing out the differential with spacers sliced off a length of stock purchased from McMaster-Carr. Would have been better on a lathe but the bandsaw wasn't a bad second choice. The stock came from McMaster-Carr, 1" OD aluminum tube. (1/4" wall). Each spacer is ~14.5mm thick.
Tuesday, October 20, 2020
Why do this?
- The ATR low profile oil sump won't fit on the engine with balance shaft assembly in place.
- The balance shaft assembly weighs 20lbs, removing it saves on over all weight and removes rotating mass allowing the engine to rev higher, faster.
- You might get a few horsepower back without the parasitic drag induced by balance shaft assembly.
Will this hurt the engine or lead to premature wear?
You need a balance shaft delete kit. In no particular order, pick your poison--they all work the same way.
- Massive Speed Systems - http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/_massive-speed-system_/massive-speed-balance-shaft-delete-kit/maen8647/i-2501916.aspx
- Mountune Racing - https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Balance-Shaft-Delete-Kit-p/4000-bsd-aa.htm
- GP Werks - https://gp-werks.com/shop/ols/products/gpwerks-balance-shaft-delete-kit-fits-ford-mazda-23l-and-25l
- CFM Performance - https://www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Balance-Shaft-Delete-BSD-for-2015-2016-Mustang-EcoBoost-777p5808.htm
How do you do it?
Removal is straight forward. Remove the oil pain to gain access to the balance shaft assembly. Four bolts hold the balance shaft to the bottom of the engine where it engages with the crankshaft via a large sprocket. Wind out the four large bolts and the unit lifts out of place easily.
- Lube the plug o-ring, then stick the plug in the oil galley.
- Apply red loctite to the retaining bolt, install bolt and torque to spec. (18 lb/ft)
- I went with the Massive Speed Systems kit because I was also buying their lightweight under-drive water pump pulley anyway.
- Don't be a dumbass like me, I didn't have the necessary oil pick-up tube handy to install the new ATR oil pan. Now I have to wait for parts for to be shipped back to me.
Thursday, October 15, 2020
Parking Brake Cable Routing- Having taken a look at some of the photos from Richard's build, I now have a better idea of how the parking brake cables are supposed to be fitted into the chassis bracket. This will be a quick and easy job. Paint the swirl pot hard line- Unnecessary but a small touch that’s easy do now before the car is wet with fluids. Painting it is really just a aesthetic thing since I’ve also painted the swirl pot gloss black.
- Quick and dirty operation, scrubbed down with steel wool, sprayed with one coat each of primer (heavy), base gloss black (medium), and gloss clear coat. (Heavy). No need to do multiple coats of each on this part. Once it’s had a day or two to cure I’ll jam it back into place and clamp it in.
Washer Reservoir- Having taken a look at some of the photos from Richard's build, I now have a better idea of where the washer bottle is supposed to be mounted.
- Fixed with M8 rivnuts and cap-head screws. This is overkill but it is what it is. The car was drill with 7/16" holes for the bottle mount.
- The washer harness will need to be extended, the harness is configured for right-hand-drive but this is a left hand drive car.
Los Honry Boy- Having taken a loot at some of the photos from Richard's build, I have new ideas about where I might be able to install the horn that's mostly out of the way.
- There’s a lot of dead space between the radiator and the front of the engine, I decided to mount the horn off one of the steering rack brackets.
Give em' the clamps- I need to acquire more worm clamps of the correct sizes to finish up the high pressure fuel pump hard line installation.
- Notes: I picked up some slight too large camps from OSH, they will work alright.
- Tighten up the transmission mount bushing - I really don't need to put more explanation into this.
- Tighten to M10 Class 8.8 w/ thread locker torque spec
Route the electrical loom at the back of the car- This should probably go from the right side of the car to the left. Dig Out the Transmission and 2.5L engine- We're getting to that point. I should start working on these. First task, pull them out of the corner of the garage and clean them up.
Tuesday, October 13, 2020
Operating Pressure: 43.5 PSI (3 Bar)
Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 34 GPH (130LPH)
These pumps were used in just about everything, most seem to have come with ring terminals instead of spades. This should be alright but if I need to bump up to a larger pump, going with surge tank with built-in pump is going to be the way to go.
I ordered a tube bender from Amazon, within fifteen minutes of delivery I had this ["finely crafted"] bit of 1/2" copper tube was bent up and in place.
For reference, this is what it would look like on with rubber tubing. (And on a right hand drive car, mounted on the right side of the chassis.)
ProTip: Pipe is measured from the inside diameter, tube is measured from the outside diameter.
Monday, October 12, 2020
Tuesday, October 6, 2020
The Short Story
After figuring out the bore and hub diameters, I printed hub centering rings for my car. They should be adequately durable if printed in ABS, ASA, or PETG with 100% infill.
I printed mine with Shaxon ABS at .28mm layer hight. Pumpkin orange. Because October.
Link to the parametric Thingiverse model I'm using: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40516
Link to the custom models I remixed from this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617312
The Long Story
Needing to keep the wheels concentric to the spindles, hub centering rings are a requirement and my kit didn't come with them. Some simple searches revealed the ring sizes I'd need aren't unobtainium but since the the car has two different center bores and hub diameters, one full set in each size are required if purchasing commercial sets.
Since I own a 3D printer I spent 5 minutes in Fusion360 modeling up two test rings to make sure I had my measurements correct before slapping down fat stacks of cash on commercial sets.
Sunday, October 4, 2020
- Front: Mazda, Miata ( 1999 - 2004 )
- Stud Pattern: 4x100mm
- Center bore: 54.1mm
- Rear: Ford, Sierra (1982 - 1993)
- Stud Pattern: 4x108mm
- Center bore: 64.1
Current Fitment: Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2
- Size: 15x7
- Pattern 4x100
- Center Bore: 57.1mm
- Offset: ET -15
- Tire: Toyo Proxes R1R
- Size: 15x8
- Pattern: 4x108
- Center Bore: 73.1mm
- Offset: ET -27
- Tires: Toyo Proxes R1R
- Required Center Rings
- Front: 54.1(ID) to 57.1(OD)
- Rear: 64.1 (ID) to 73.1(OD)
Saturday, October 3, 2020
- Ensure clearance between the steering column and fuel return hose.
- Ensure clearance on the bulkhead to mount high-pressure fuel pumps.