Wednesday, March 3, 2021

Flasher Relay Redux

 The LED flasher that I bought was garbage, I updated my previous post with that information.  I've replaced it with a more expensive electronic flasher that shouldn't suffer from the terrible electro mechanical issues the one I first bought has.

The new LED Flasher (FL3-RED-K) is a three pin flasher but the GBS Zero's flasher socket will need to be re-pinned. The short story is that the GBS is pinned for ISO relays, FL3-RED-K relay that I purchased is pinned as a JSO relay. Research into that what you will but the following diagram should help on that.

Basically, looking at the back of the Relay Socket everything needs to rotate one tab clockwise.



Monday, March 1, 2021

Oil Pressure Switch Problems

I have learned through trial and error that the oil pressure switch use in the Ford Fusion that my engine came from is not compatible with the way that the GBS's wiring harness.

UPDATE: I chose Solution 1 however that introduced another issue that required me to swap out the switch connector housing. Making a long story short, you want a WVE Vehicle Electronics 1P1883 connector pig-tail kit. De-pin/swap connectors or cut and splice, whichever method floats your boat. (I de-pinned 'cause that's how I roll.)

The Problem

The Ford switch from the fusion is wired to be normally open, meaning that when it sees no oil pressure the switch is open and the GBS Zero's indicator light will be off. When there is oil pressure the switch will close and illuminate the warning light. Neither of the conditions is desirable.

The Solution

Find an oil pressure switch thats normally closed. I present three options here.

  1. Standard Motor Products PS299 - Inexpensive, should fit in the ATR oil filter housing without needing to us any adapters, appears to have the same dimensions as the Ford Fusion's pressure sensor, just NC instead of NO. Yay!
  2. MOTORCRAFT SW5029 - Inexpensive, used in millions of Ford cars. Should fit in the ATR oil filter housing.
  3. ACDelco 8020 - Opens at 5psi, inexpensive, used on millions of cars since the 1960's. Doesn't fit in the ATR oil filter housing because hexagonal body is just a bit too large. You would need to mount this in a remote location.

Friday, February 26, 2021

Warning Indicators

The Short Story

I'm going to go with the Summit Technologies HAWK Array rather than rolling my own. It's less expensive and would look better than what I would build for my own usage.

The Less Short Story

For the purpose of testing my car's electrics I built a prototype indicator array. It half worked. I sunk all of the LED cathodes to a common chassis ground because I made bad assumptions. 

What indicators sink to what, briefly.

  • Discrete Source, Common Sink
    • Right Turn
    • Left Turn
    • High Beam
  • Common Source, Discrete Sink
    • Oil Pressure
    • Alternator
    • Brake

分りません!

Reading it that way is a little confusing if you've not fully grasped that some things within the car are ground switched. I had the boys down in R&D whip up this janky diagram to help better illustrate the point. (Brown lines are ground/sinks)

How does the HAWK Array work in this configuration?

The HAWK indicator array is already wired up with exactly these indicators lamps with exactly this configuration of sources and sinks. It's like it was purpose built for British kit cars. (It was purpose built for British kit cars.)

What the other stuff about bulbs, watts, and field exciter circuits?

Depending, I may need to build a circuit that will excite the alternator so that it'll produce power at idle. It's a fairly simple circuit, especially if you're using an incandescent bulb. If you're using an LED, well, they offer little forward resistance so they might not excite the alternator and you need to bridge a resistor that will simulate the load of a 2-4 watt bulb. (@12V)  I might need to do this with the HAWK array, but I'm not 100% sure on that right now.

Thursday, February 25, 2021

Oiling System

I've gone back and forth on the cooling system on my car for a bit but I've come up with a solution that I like and am presently implementing.


The Problem:

The location of the engine and oil filter in the engine bay of a GBS Zero with a Ford Duratec engine sucks. A lot.  The filter sits on its side over an area where it will make an unholy mess when it's time to change the oil filter.  The problem is even worse if you're running with GBS' supplied oil cooler kit.

Exhibit A:


(The oil filter hangs out over a fuel line and some of the body work that would love to collect and trap some oil dripping out of the filter when it gets removed.)

The Solution:

The easy to say answer is "Install a remote oil filter mount." On the Generation 2 chassis, that's not as easy as it seems but I've managed to make it work out. The only down side of my solution to this problem is that I lose the oil thermostat so it will take a little longer for the care to come up to full temperature. Not much of a problem, to be completely honest.

  • Location - In a Generation 2 GBS Zero chassis locations for a remote mount oil filter are limited. In my car, the best place is beside the battery on the passenger's side.
  • Remote Oil Filter Mount - I sourced a used CV Products remote oil filter mount from Ebay. (-10AN inlet/outlet ports, 1/8 npt port (post filter), 3/4-16 oil filter nipple) This mount features angled inlets ports opposite from each other and outlet on top.
  • Oil Filter Takeoff/Bypass - I am using the oil cooler takeoff sandwich provided by GBS and a filter bypass plate from Torques.co.uk. (Purchased on Ebay) In the future I might change to one of Mountune's oil takeoff plates but this setup should work for now.
  • Mounting Bracket - I built a simple, robust mount out of 1.25" (.125" thick) angle iron. It mounts to the chassis rail with some M6 rivnuts. (See the video.)

Exhibit B:














Foot Notes:

1. The reason that I have to lose the thermostat is that with the thermostat in place, unfiltered oil would be circulated through the engine until it gets to 180˚f and the thermostat closes. No bueno.

Tuesday, February 23, 2021

Direct Fit Oil Filter Cross Reference

The following is a table of oil filters that should be direct fit swaps for my Zero. 

For future reference, the Motorcraft FL910S is about an inch longer than the supplied BluePrint  oil filter, I'll probably just use those going forward for that touch extra capacity.

Direct Fit (Per Rock Auto)Extra NotationsNotes
Ford/MotorcraftFL910S
WIX51348XP
Fram3614XG/FS/FF/TG/PH
K&Nhp-1002
Bosch3330
Denso1502010
MazdaLF0514302A
MazdaLF0514302B

Thursday, February 18, 2021

GBSゼロ - First Power

LEDs and flasher relay

UPDATE (03/03/2021):

The flasher that I bought is complete and utter garbage. Do not buy it. It will kill your children, corrupt your dog, and run off with your spouse on a bank robbery spree.

Another thing to think about, the GBS Zero uses ISO standard pin outs for the flasher relay.

You can easily use Grote 44892 LED flasher unit.

LEDs and Flasher Relay 

GBS included a flasher relay intended for incandescent bulbs however they shipped LED front turn signals and incandescent tail/brake/rear-turn bulbs with the car.  This will result in a fast than desired flashing of the right and left turn signals. The quick solution is to just replace all of the remaining indicator bulbs with LEDs and flasher relay. (With an LED compatible relay)  While I'm at it, I've also purchased a set of LED H4 headlights.

I bought all of the needed parts at SuperBrightLEDs.com, part numbers are below.

  • Brake/Tail (red) - 1157 Socket x2 - 1157-R27-T-2PK
  • Rear Fog (red) - 1156 Socket x1 - 1156-R27-T
  • Reverse Light (white) - 1156 Socket x 1 - 1156-NW27-T
  • Turn Indicator (amber) - 1156 Socket x2 - 1156-A27-T-2PK
  • LED Flasher Relay - CF13GL-02 FL3-RED-K
  • H4 Headlights - H4-HLV7