Tuesday, May 18, 2021
Saturday, May 15, 2021
- I had the wrong version of Emerald's ECU software installed.
- I downloaded the config software from Emerald's web site, I don't own any computers with DVD drives that could have read/loaded the software that was in the included DVD drive.
- I made the incorrect assumption that would be be the most complete, up-to-date version. It was not.
- Some K6 ECUs require bespoke software versions, my K6 VVT was not 100% compatible with the software version on their website.
- Emerald's documentation is is kinda crap.
- The K6 documentation lists pin 14 as a +8v sensor. Emerald's support rep told me that pin 14 on the K6 VVT ECU is actually a configurable spare output.
- Every single bit of documentation for the K6 ECU on both their website and on the DVD included with the ECU fails to actually correctly capture and convey all of the actual inputs and outputs of the ECU that I was shipped.
- Installed the correct version of the software.
- Emerald's support emailed me the correct version of the configuration software for my specific ECU.
- Seriously, who creates bespoke versions of configuration software like that?!?!
- Set Pin 14 to control the main relay.
- Changed the Main Relay trigger from Pin 4 to Pin 14.
- Verified that the VVT solenoid had was configured to trigger on Pin 3 instead of Pin 17. (Old issue I found while sorting out the wiring harness.)
The Take Away
It's been a bit of time since I've made an update here and it's time to do some brain dumping, starting with some fluids.
The car is now presently full of fluids. Let's talk about them.
- Engine Oil
- Motorcraft 5W-20 full synthetic - No point in using anything more exotic, special, or expensive on the car right now.
- Transmission fluid
- Redline MTL Gear Oil - 75W-80 GL-4 gear oil, pretty much the only thing that I use in my Miata transmissions.
- Gear Oil
- Royal Purple Max Gear - 75w-90. I needed 75W-90 for the differential and this is what Winchester Auto had in stock. I would have preferred Redline but in a pandemic, beggars can't be choosers.
- Distilled Water & [water wetter] - I live in California, there's no real need to run anti-freeze. Distilled water and some anti-corrosive additives are good.
- Brake Fluid
- Generic DOT-4 - Again, nothing special right now. High enough temp resistance and fairly inexpensive. I really don't like the idea of leaking Ate or Motul all over the garage while hunting down leaks. I can bleed it all out later, if needed.
Wednesday, March 3, 2021
The LED flasher that I bought was garbage, I updated my previous post with that information. I've replaced it with a more expensive electronic flasher that shouldn't suffer from the terrible electro mechanical issues the one I first bought has.
The new LED Flasher (FL3-RED-K) is a three pin flasher but the GBS Zero's flasher socket will need to be re-pinned. The short story is that the GBS is pinned for ISO relays, FL3-RED-K relay that I purchased is pinned as a JSO relay. Research into that what you will but the following diagram should help on that.
Basically, looking at the back of the Relay Socket everything needs to rotate one tab clockwise.
Monday, March 1, 2021
I have learned through trial and error that the oil pressure switch use in the Ford Fusion that my engine came from is not compatible with the way that the GBS's wiring harness.
UPDATE: I chose Solution 1 however that introduced another issue that required me to swap out the switch connector housing. Making a long story short, you want a WVE Vehicle Electronics 1P1883 connector pig-tail kit. De-pin/swap connectors or cut and splice, whichever method floats your boat. (I de-pinned 'cause that's how I roll.)
The Ford switch from the fusion is wired to be normally open, meaning that when it sees no oil pressure the switch is open and the GBS Zero's indicator light will be off. When there is oil pressure the switch will close and illuminate the warning light. Neither of the conditions is desirable.
Find an oil pressure switch thats normally closed. I present three options here.
- Standard Motor Products PS299 - Inexpensive, should fit in the ATR oil filter housing without needing to us any adapters, appears to have the same dimensions as the Ford Fusion's pressure sensor, just NC instead of NO. Yay!
- MOTORCRAFT SW5029 - Inexpensive, used in millions of Ford cars. Should fit in the ATR oil filter housing.
- ACDelco 8020 - Opens at 5psi, inexpensive, used on millions of cars since the 1960's. Doesn't fit in the ATR oil filter housing because hexagonal body is just a bit too large. You would need to mount this in a remote location.
Friday, February 26, 2021
The Short Story
I'm going to go with the Summit Technologies HAWK Array rather than rolling my own. It's less expensive and would look better than what I would build for my own usage.
The Less Short Story
For the purpose of testing my car's electrics I built a prototype indicator array. It half worked. I sunk all of the LED cathodes to a common chassis ground because I made bad assumptions.
What indicators sink to what, briefly.
- Discrete Source, Common Sink
- Right Turn
- Left Turn
- High Beam
- Common Source, Discrete Sink
- Oil Pressure